Expedition Overview
The Gasherbrum I (8,068m / Hidden Peak / K5) and Gasherbrum II (8,035m / K4) Double 8,000m Expedition is the definitive multi-peak mountaineering journey in the Karakoram. Situated at the terminus of the Gasherbrum Glacier, these two iconic eight-thousanders share the same Base Camp (5,150m) and lower approach through the Gasherbrum Icefall to Camp 1 (5,900m).
This extraordinary geographic proximity allows experienced climbers to establish a single base camp infrastructure, complete their acclimatization rotations, summit Gasherbrum II (8,035m) via the classic Southwest / Banana Ridge, and then use that peak fitness and acclimatization to launch a summit push on Gasherbrum I (8,068m) via the Japanese Couloir—achieving two 8,000m summits on a single expedition.
Hunza Adventure Tours provides comprehensive dual-peak logistics. We manage dual government climbing royalty permits, Baltoro porter caravans (80 kg cargo per climber), comfortable base camp facilities, emergency oxygen, solar generator charging, and experienced local mountain staff.
Expedition Highlights
- Attempt two 8,000m summits in one season: Gasherbrum I (8,068m) & Gasherbrum II (8,035m)
- 36 dedicated climbing days for dual acclimatization, line fixing & summit pushes
- Single base camp hub (5,150m) serving both peaks for maximum efficiency
- 80 kg personal cargo transport allowance to Gasherbrum Base Camp (55 kg return)
- Iconic trek through the Baltoro Glacier via Paiju, Urdukas, and Concordia
- Professional high-altitude expedition chef & nutritious hot meals for 55 days
- Dual peak government royalty clearances & ACP Liaison handling (DTS #ID-1994)
- Emergency Gamow hyperbaric bag, medical oxygen & satellite comms access
Dual Peak Camps & Route Profile
Gasherbrum Glacier
Central staging hub serving both G-I and G-II with heated mess tent, solar charging, and medical post.
Shared Gasherbrum Cwm
Upper glacial basin camp above the Gasherbrum Icefall, serving as the launchpad for both routes.
Banana Ridge (G-II)
Camps 2 and 3 established along the Southwest Ridge leading to the G-II summit (8,035m).
Japanese Couloir (G-I)
Camps 2 and 3 established in the steep 50° mixed couloir leading to the G-I summit (8,068m).
Gasherbrum II Summit
First 8,000m summit achieved via the Southwest Ridge, completing full high-altitude acclimatization.
Gasherbrum I Summit
Second 8,000m summit achieved on the next weather window, completing the prestigious double header.
55-Day Expedition Itinerary
Arrival in Islamabad – Welcome & Transfer to Hotel
Welcome to Pakistan! Reception by the Hunza Adventure Tours team at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to hotel. In the afternoon, assemble for expedition orientation and document verification.
Alpine Club of Pakistan & Ministry Briefing
Official expedition briefing at the Ministry of Alpine Affairs / ACP for dual climbing royalty clearances and introduction to military Liaison Officer.
Flight to Skardu or Scenic Drive via Karakoram Highway
Mountain flight past Nanga Parbat into Skardu (or 2-day scenic highway drive via Babusar Pass / KKH in case of weather cancellation).
Expedition Cargo Assembly & Final Packing in Skardu
Final gear check, oxygen regulator testing, food packaging, and 80kg cargo distribution among porter caravans in Skardu.
4x4 Jeep Drive from Skardu to Askole (Trailhead)
Thrilling 6-7 hour 4x4 drive up the Shigar Valley and Braldu River gorge to Askole village (3,040m), the trailhead for the Baltoro wilderness.
Trek up Baltoro Glacier via Paiju, Urdukas & Concordia
6-day trek along the Braldu Valley and onto the immense Baltoro Glacier. Camps at Jhola, Paiju, Urdukas, Goro II, and Concordia (4,650m).
Trek from Concordia to Gasherbrum Base Camp (5,150m)
Trek south from Concordia up the Upper Baltoro and Gasherbrum Glacier to establish the joint Gasherbrum Base Camp (5,150m).
36 Days of Climbing, G-II Summit Push (8,035m) & G-I Summit Push (8,068m)
36 dedicated days for Puja ceremony, icefall line fixing to Camp 1 (5,900m), establishing G-II Camps 2 & 3 on the Banana Ridge, summit push to Gasherbrum II (8,035m), rest and recovery at BC, establishing G-I Camps on the Japanese Couloir, and summit push to Gasherbrum I (8,068m).
Base Camp Cleanup & Return Trek via Gondogoro La / Askole
Complete Base Camp packing, Leave-No-Trace cleanup, and return trek across the Baltoro trail back to Askole or over Gondogoro La into Hushe.
4x4 Jeep Drive to Skardu & Grand Double Summit Gala Dinner
Drive by 4x4 Land Cruiser to Skardu. Hot showers, gear repacking, and grand celebration banquet with our local high-altitude team.
Flight to Islamabad, ACP Debriefing & International Departure
Morning flight from Skardu to Islamabad. Official debriefing at the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Farewell banquet and transfer to Islamabad International Airport for homeward flights.
Expedition Photo Gallery
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Base Camp Services & Logistics
Included BC Logistics
- Dual Government Royalty Climbing Permits (G-I & G-II) & LO fees
- Military Liaison Officer kit, allowance & insurance
- 80 kg personal cargo transport per climber to Gasherbrum BC (55 kg return)
- Deluxe heated mess tent, solar power charging station & private sleeping tents at BC
- Professional high-altitude expedition chef & full kitchen crew for 55 days
- 3 nutritious hot meals daily + unlimited tea, coffee & high-energy snacks
- Emergency Gamow hyperbaric chamber & medical oxygen at BC
- Satellite communication (Thuraya / Iridium) emergency terminal access
- All domestic flights, hotel accommodations in Islamabad & Skardu, and private 4x4 jeeps
Not Included
- International flights to/from Islamabad
- High altitude climbing Sherpa / HAP support (available on request)
- High altitude oxygen bottles & mask regulators above BC
- Personal high-altitude climbing gear, down suits & technical hardware
- Mandatory helicopter evacuation & extreme medical rescue insurance
- High altitude climbing rope-fixing fee contribution & summit bonuses
- Personal tips for Base Camp kitchen staff and porters
Essential Expedition Gear Checklist
- 8000m Triple Mountaineering Boots (Olimpus / Phantom 8000)
- Step-in technical steel climbing crampons
- Comfortable trekking boots for the Baltoro Glacier approach
- Camp booties & merino wool expedition socks (8+ pairs)
- Full 8000m one-piece down climbing suit (-40°C rated)
- Heavyweight expedition down sleeping bag (-35°C to -40°C)
- Gore-Tex Pro waterproof hardshell jacket & pants
- Expedition mitts, windproof liner gloves & face masks
- Technical ice axes / climbing adze & hammer
- Climbing harness, ascender (Jumar) & descender (ATC / Figure 8)
- Mountaineering climbing helmet & UV Cat 4 glacier goggles
- Avalanche transceiver (Beacon), shovel & probe
Terms & Conditions
Hunza Adventure Tours promulgates its terms and conditions for any kind of expedition, mountaineering, trekking, and base camp logistic support operated by the company in Pakistan.
Expedition Reservation & Payment Terms
- 40% advance deposit is required upon booking confirmation to secure climbing permits, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) clearances, military Liaison Officer assignments, and cargo allocations.
- The full balance settlement must be cleared upon arrival in Islamabad before the official Ministry briefing.
- Advance deposits are directly deposited into our official bank account via international wire transfer.
- Permit royalty fees are non-refundable once approved and processed by the Ministry of Tourism.
Official Corporate Bank Account Details
Direct all expedition wire transfers to Bank Alfalah Pakistan:
Deposits covering government climbing royalties, ACP permits, and environment fees are non-refundable once committed. Refunds on remaining logistical balances are subject to written notice and expenses incurred.
Individual private member sleeping tents are provided at Base Camp. In city hotels, twin sharing applies; single hotel room supplement is available on request.
No refund is given to climbers who decide to leave Base Camp early or abandon their summit bids prior to the scheduled 55-day conclusion.
Safety protocols, environmental Leave-No-Trace rules, and military Liaison Officer directives must be strictly observed at all times.
Double 8000m mountaineering demands exceptional endurance, mental stamina, and adaptability to unpredictable Karakoram weather windows.
All expedition members must have valid high-altitude mountaineering insurance covering helicopter rescue up to 8,068m and medical repatriation.
Climbers and team leaders have autonomy over high-altitude climbing tactics and route fixing above Base Camp in coordination with other climbing teams.
Climbers must submit full passport copies, climbing resumes, and bio-data at least 60 days prior for Ministry clearances and Mountaineering Visa approvals.
High-altitude mountaineering involves inherent objective dangers including avalanches, crevasses, and altitude illness. Participants undertake climbs at their own risk.
While domestic flights between Islamabad and Skardu are booked, land transit via the Karakoram Highway is maintained as standard backup.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why combine Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II in one trip?
Combining G-I and G-II is the most cost-effective and time-efficient way to climb two 8,000m peaks. Both mountains share the same base camp and Camp 1 (5,900m). Climbers acclimatize on G-II first, and once that summit is achieved, they are in peak condition to climb G-I on the next weather window without repeating the long approach.
Which peak is attempted first?
Gasherbrum II (8,035m) is standardly attempted first because its Southwest Ridge offers a safer, more progressive acclimatization profile. Once summiting G-II, climbers rest at Base Camp and then tackle the more technical Japanese Couloir on Gasherbrum I (8,068m).
What base camp facilities are provided?
We provide a deluxe heated dining mess tent with carpeted flooring, individual member sleeping tents with thick foam mattresses, 24/7 solar generator charging stations, satellite comms terminal, professional high-altitude kitchen staff, and fresh nutritious meals throughout the 55-day expedition.
How are medical emergencies handled at Base Camp?
Our Base Camp is equipped with a portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow Bag), medical oxygen cylinders, comprehensive trauma & high-altitude medication kits, pulse oximeters, and direct satellite link to Askari Aviation military helicopter rescue services.
